How can I Install a Hammock in my Home?

Hammocks attached to wall

Wall mounting

The classic method of hanging hammocks at home is from wall to wall. Suitable for all hammock.

See requirements for wall mounting

Net hammock attached to the ceiling

Ceiling mounting

Attaching the hammock to the ceiling saves space, looks elegant, does not block the room and reduces the load on the suspension. However, this method is only suitable for large and wide hammocks.

See requirements ceiling mounting

Install Checklist

The main steps to hang a hammock at home

1 Which Hammocks Are Suitable For Indoor?

If you haven’t bought a hammock yet, take a look at our indoor hammocks. Namely, you can influence your installation options by the size and type of hammock you choose.

Type and width

Consider fixing your hammocks to the ceiling ? For this purpose, a net hammock with a bed width wider than your body height and you can therefore lie crosswise instead of diagonally in the hammock. See ceiling mounting


How would you like to use your hammock? As a relaxation corner? For naps or power napping? Or as a bed substitute? The more time you spend in the hammock, the larger and higher quality the hammock should be


Hammocks made of synthetic fabrics can feel uncomfortable on your skin over time, may create frictional electricity or rustle when moving.

Indoors, your hammock is protected from weather conditions and therefore a cotton lying surface is best suited.

2 How much space do I need?

Most rooms are large enough to hang a hammock. The more curved the hammock hangs, the less space is needed.


Distance between the two walls: 1 min. 90% of the total length of the hammock . For Hamacama hammocks: Classic and Strong = 380 cm; Heaven = 390 cm).

The picture shows the largest (green) and smallest (black) recommended hanging angle.

Wall mounting details

The wall mounting allows a hanging angle of 20°-45°. The hammock should sag in a crescent shape and you lie diagonally in it.


  • The hammock should not hang flatter than the black hammock in the picture, because the 1. the lying surface is too taut and 2. the load on the suspension is increased by tensile forces (see suspension angle 20°)
  • Even if the wall-to-wall distance is too small, you could hang the hammock diagonally in the room, since the two hanging points do not necessarily have to be opposite each other.
  • It is better to place the borehole too high than too low, because you can regulate the distance with ropes.
  • Suitable for all hammocks
  • The lying surface is fully utilized by lying diagonally
  • The room is closed off by the hammock
  • Fixing to the wall does not look good visually

Distance of the suspension points at a height of approx. 2.5 m: 2 min. ~70%total length of the hammock(for Hamacama hammocks: Classic and Strong = min. 290 cm; Heaven = min. 300 cm).

The picture shows the largest (black) and smallest (green) recommended hanging angle.

Ceiling mounting details

The hammock hangs swing-shaped from the ceiling in a 45° – 75° hanging angle. One lies diagonally (<45°) or crosswise (>45°) in the hammock. Lying crosswise is only possible if the person in the hammock is smaller than the width of the hammock.


  • Room is not separated by hammock
  • Reduced load on the suspension
  • Less space required
  • Suspension does not interfere visually
  • Hammock (e.g. Hamacama hammocks) must be wide enough so that you can lie crosswise in it (width of the hammock > body size) For cloth hammocks rarely suitable
  • If the distance of the suspension points is too small (see suspension angle 75° and black hammock in the picture), you may feel cramped in hammock

3 Which suspension accessories for which building material?

Can my wall or ceiling take the strain of a hammock?

Building material Tips Accessories recommendation

Concrete ≥ C20/25

To the instructions

  • Optimal building material for fastening
  • Test drilling: very fine white to grey drill dust
Hamacama Screws with plastic dowel
Wooden beams

Load bearing wooden beams


  • Must be load bearing and not just for decoration
  • If available, look in the attic for the course of load-bearing beams
Hamacama Screws
Solid brick

Solid brick ≥ Mz 12

To the instructions

  • Test drilling: unmistakable red drill dust
Hamacama Screws with plastic dowel LaSiesta CasaMount
Vertical perforated brick

Vertical perforated brick ≥ Hlz 12

To the instructions

  • No high load capacity
  • Test drilling: light red/orange drill dust and jerky drilling progress
  • No impact drilling, only rotary drilling.
Hamacama Screws with injection mortar
Sand-lime brick

Solid lime sand brick ≥ KS 12

To the instructions

  • Test hole: White, fine-grained, almost sandy drill dust
Hamacama Screws with plastic dowelLaSiesta CasaMount
Sand-lime perforated brick

Perforated lime sand brick ≥ KSL 12

  • Test drilling: White, fine-grained, almost sandy drill dust and jerky drilling progress
LaSiesta CasaMount
Timber frame construction Wooden studs (timber frame construction)
  • Use beam locator to find wooden beams behind the wall
Hamacama ScrewsLaSiesta CasaMount
Aerated concrete

Aerated concrete

To the instructions

  • Test drilling: Fast drilling progress and a white and slightly greasy drill dust.
Hamacama Screws with injection mortar
Requires cone drill and centering grommets
Plasterboard Drywall (plasterboard)
  • When tapping the wall a hollow sound
  • Test drilling: soft material, white drill dust that sticks easily to the drill bit
No fastening possible

FAQ about building materials and assembly methods

How do I find out the building material of my wall/ceiling?
  • Ask your landlord or the property management
  • Knocking down the wall or ceiling. If you hear a hollow noise, the building material (e.g. plasterboard) is not suitable.
  • You can see through the door frames if a wall is load bearing. 12 cm = no load-bearing wall, 24 cm and more = load-bearing wall
  • Make a test hole. In the table above you will find an indication of what the respective bore dust looks like.
What is the difference between plastic anchors and injection mortar?

The plastic dowel is inexpensive and easy to attach. The suspension can also be easily removed and the hole covered with a repair mortar.

The plastic dowel is the optimal solution for concrete, but also suitable for solid stone. With other building materials, however, the load-bearing capacity is usually not sufficient for a hammock.


The injection mortar is a high-strength mortar that hardens in the borehole together with the eyebolt.

The assembly is a bit more complicated, because the borehole has to be cleaned well with a suitable brush and a blower several times.

In contrast to the dowel, the injection mortar can also be used in more special building materials (such as aerated concrete) and offers the highest load-bearing capacity.

The disadvantage is that the suspension is very difficult to remove. This could be a no-go for a rental property.

4 The 4 rules of thumb

Without mathematics, if you follow these basic rules nothing can go wrong

1. suspension eyes at the same height

The two ends of the hammock (suspension eyes) should be at the same height.

2. hang loose like a banana

The hammock should hang loosely at the end like a banana (exception: hammocks with wooden pole). The hammock then hangs at about a 30° angle. What is the hanging angle?

3. enough distance to swing

There must be enough distance for the hammock to swing. One meter forward and one meter back is a good guideline.

4. lowest point at knee height

The hammock must not hang too low so that you do not touch the ground after getting in. For safety reasons, however, the hammock should not hang higher than knee height.


5 What is the hanging angle?

The hanging angle determines how much the hammock sags, how best to lie in the hammock, and how much weight is applied to the hammock suspension.

Suspension angle 20 degree hanging angle 30 degree hanging angle 45 degree hanging angle 75 degree hanging angle
Usual mounting Wall mounting Wall mounting Wall mounting or ceiling mounting Ceiling mounting
Optimal lying position Lying in longitudinal axis at 20 degrees hanging angle Diagonal lying at 30 degrees hanging angle Diagonal/transverse lying at 45 degree hanging angle Lying crosswise at 75 degrees hanging angle
Load factor . 150% 100% 70% 50%
Example 80 KG person . 120 KG (!) 80 KG 56 KG 40 KG
Conclusion Not recommended: 1.5 times the load on the suspension; the lying surface may feel too tight Recommended: Recommended: Classic angle for wall mounting, the hammock hangs through like a banana; optimal for small hammocks, because the lying surface is used to the best possible extent by lying diagonally. Recommended: similar to 30° angle; good for several people in the hammock Only recommended for particularly wide net hammocks(Strong, Heaven); the hammock hangs in a swing shape; only room for one person; not suitable for stomach sleepers; hammock can restrict the freedom of movement of the shoulders on the left and right; the full width of the hammock is used; minimum space requirement in the room and least stress on the suspension

FAQ about hanging angle and load capacity

In summary: What influence does the hanging angle of a hammock have?
  • The angle does not have to be determined exactly, if the hammock sags like a banana nothing can go wrong (exception: pole hammocks).
  • The angle affects how you need to lie in the hammock to have a straight back (diagonal to transverse).
  • If the angle becomes too shallow (<25°), the forces acting on the suspension become greater and greater and the lying surface becomes more and more taut – this has a negative effect on the lying comfort.
  • A hammock does not necessarily have to hang at a 30° angle, but this angle has the advantage with small hammocks of making the best possible use of the lying surface (by lying diagonally).
  • The 20°-45° angle is achieved by wall mounting and the 45°-75° angle is achieved by ceiling mounting.
  • The greater the angle (max. 75°), the lower the load on the suspension. With the 75° angle, the weight is distributed evenly over both suspension points.
What is the maximum weight allowed in the hammock?

This depends on the weakest link in the chain – which is usually the suspension points (wall, deck, tree, etc.) or the suspension ropes.

The following factors, among others, determine the max. Resilience:

  • The breaking load and wear of the suspension ropes and, if present, the karabiners
  • Course of the suspension ropes (e.g. over sharp edges)
  • The breaking load and wear of the hammock material
  • The more the hammock sags, the less the load and vice versa
  • The type and age of the building material to which the suspension points are attached
  • Dynamic forces (e.g. by jumping into the hammock)

6 Where do I drill the holes for my suspension?

Determine the drill holes easily and without calculations. You need two helpers and two ropes.


1. tie ropes

Tie the two ropes to both ends of the hammock with a knot of your choice.

2. helpers hold the hammock

Two helpers hold your hammock the way you want it to hang in the end: Lowest point at knee height, sagging like a banana, and enough room to swing forward and back (see 4 rules of thumb).


3. hold the ropes to the wall/ceiling and mark the drilling point

You hold one of the ropes straight to the wall or ceiling as the hammock would run and mark the first drill hole.

Drill the first hole and install the fastener. Hang hammock. Hold the second rope against the wall or ceiling again to determine the second drill hole.

Tips on the position of the first drill hole
  • For wall mounting: Better too high than low. You can always adjust the height of the hammock through the ropes. If the hole is too deep, you could touch the ground when you put it in and have no room to adjust the suspension upwards.
  • For ceiling mounting: Even easier, because the two holes are at the same height with a flat ceiling. Just make sure that the distance between the two drill holes is large enough so that the hammock does not hang too swaying (see hanging angle 75°).

FAQ for optimal drilling

Am I allowed to drill in my rental property?

Generally, drilling and placing dowels is part of the contractual use of the dwelling. Whether these dowels then have to be removed again and holes filled, your tenancy agreement will tell you (cosmetic repairs or minor repairs).

How do I avoid drilling into a power or water line?

Never drill directly above or below fittings, light switches or sockets!

Many hidden power cables can already be guessed by the position of switches, sockets or junction boxes. In modern buildings, power lines are usually laid according to precise rules.
Installed by a professional, they usually run only vertically and horizontally to the ceiling and floor. As a rule, a professional lays the cables along about 30 centimeters below the ceiling or 30 centimeters above the floor.

Even safer is to use a line locator. In old buildings in particular, you cannot rely on straightforward performance curves.

Attention, reinforced concrete! What should be considered?

Reinforced concrete

Note that behind most ceilings, columns and also walls made of concrete there is a so-called reinforcement (also called reinforcement and strengthening) or a steel mesh as in the picture. While concrete is extremely durable when compressed, it has weaknesses when pulled apart. Therefore, these steel meshes are used to further increase the stability of the concrete, especially in safety-relevant areas such as the ceiling.


Do not attempt to drill through the reinforcement!
  • You can thus negatively influence the statics of the building
  • Common masonry drills usually do not manage to drill through the steel mesh
  • The drill can get stuck and the drill could injure you
How should I now drill for (reinforced) concrete?
  • Line locator (optional): It is best to use a line locator with which you can detect not only power lines but also steel. This allows the reinforcement to be identified and avoided in advance
  • Smallest drill bit: Pre-drill with a small drill bit
    • Reinforcement missed (luckily): If you were able to drill to the desired depth with approximately constant resistance throughout, you luckily missed the reinforcement. You can now re-drill with the large drill bit.
    • Hit the reinforcement: If you suddenly stop making progress while drilling, you have probably hit the reinforcement. Try again about 2 cm left/right and top/bottom offset. By the way: Incorrectly drilled holes are no reason to panic! You can find “repair putty” online or in specialty stores with which you can cover the hole easily and without tools. After curing, the incorrectly drilled hole is no longer visible.
wood-beam (2)

7 Mounting on wooden beams, balconies or wooden posts

How to fix the Hamacama Screws in wood. Pre-drill, screw in and you’re done! Alternatively, you can tie the ropes directly to wooden beams.


1. mounting accessories and tools

Suspension accessories
  • Drill with 7 mm wood drill bit
  • Robust screwdriver

2. pre-drilling

First determine the position of the drill holes as described under: Where do I drill the holes? described.

  • Drill a 60 mm deep hole with a 7 mm wood drill bit the
  • Mark the 60 mm drill hole depth on the wood drill with adhesive tape.
  • Wear safety glasses, especially when drilling overhead. Please be sure to tie up any longer hair.



3. screw in the eyebolt completely.

Screw the shaft of the eyebolt completely into the hole using a screwdriver (a carabiner will also do).


7 Installation with plastic dowel for concrete and solid stone

How to fix the Hamacama Screws with plastic anchors to concrete, solid brick and solid lime sand brick


1. mounting accessories and tools

Suspension accessories
  • Percussion or hammer drill
  • 12 mm masonry drill bit
  • Robust screwdriver
  • Protective equipment: gloves and goggles
  • (optional) Smaller drill bit for pre-drilling
  • (optional) Vacuum cleaner .
Drill hole in concrete ceiling

2. drill hole

For Hamacama Screws with plastic dowels, you will need an impact/hammer drill for concrete and solid stone with a 12 mm masonry drill bit for an 87 mm deep hole (see Where do I drill the holes?). Tip: Mark the 87 mm on the drill with tape to achieve the correct drilling depth.

Attention concrete ceiling! Please read what has to be observed with reinforced concrete.

Attention security! Wear protective equipment such as gloves and goggles and make sure your standing position is stable. If you are working with a ladder, ask another person to help you. Please be sure to tie up any longer hair.

Tip: To make the hole as beautiful as possible and to prevent the drill from slipping, you should switch off the hammer or impact function of the drill for the first few millimetres.

Tip: Have someone help you by vacuuming the drilling dust right away while you are drilling.


3. drive in dowel

Clean the borehole with a vacuum cleaner or, even better, a small brush.

First press the plastic dowel into the drill hole by hand and then carefully drive it completely into the drill hole with a hammer. Better choose a small hammer and try not to miss, so as not to damage the plaster


4. screw in the screw completely

Now screw in the eyebolt completely , e.g. with a screwdriver, until the dowel is covered by the eyebolt.


7 Installation with injection mortar

Hamacama Screws with injection mortar are ideal for weaker building materials such as vertically perforated bricks and sand-lime bricks. In order to achieve higher load-bearing capacity, this method is also used for solid stone.

See also: What is the difference between plastic anchors and injection mortar?

Necessary tools for Hamacama Screws with injection mortar

1. mounting accessories and tools

Suspension accessories
  • Drilling machine (depending on building material with/without percussion/hammer drilling)
  • 12 mm masonry drill bit, drilling depth: 95 mm
  • Protective equipment: Gloves and wear protective goggles.
  • For solid brick: Drill hole blower (e.g. fischer Ausbläser AB) and cleaning brush for 12 mm drill holes.
  • (optinal) smaller drill bit for pre-drilling
  • (optional) Vacuum cleaner .

2. drill hole

For the Hamacama Screws with injection mortar you need a 12 mm masonry drill bit and a 95 mm deep drill hole (see Where do I drill the holes?). Tip: Mark the 95 mm on the drill with tape to achieve the correct drilling depth.

Attention perforated brick! For perforated brick and aerated concrete only rotary drilling. Impact or hammer drilling damages these building materials and reduces the load bearing capacity. How do I know if my building material is perforated stone?
By drilling a test hole with a small drill. You can recognize perforated stone by the jerky, rapid drilling progress.

Attention aerated concrete! For aerated concrete, a special cone drill and a centering grommet are required. (See video tutorial).

Attention reinforced concrete! Please read what has to be considered for reinforced concrete (often used for ceilings).

Attention security! Wear protective equipment such as gloves and goggles and make sure your standing position is stable.
If you are working with a ladder, ask another person to help you. Please be sure to tie up any longer hair.


3. clean borehole (mandatory for solid brick)

Attention solid brick (e.g. concrete, solid brick)! Cleaning the borehole with a vacuum cleaner is not sufficient. Thorough cleaning with a brush and a blower is necessary, otherwise the holding force of the mortar can be reduced by a multiple(!) in the case of solid stone (see video: effect of insufficient borehole cleaning).

Therefore, the following steps must not be skipped under any circumstances with solid brick:

  • 4x blow out with blower
  • Brush out 4x with borehole brush (12 mm)
  • 4x blow out with blower

4. insert sieve sleeve (only for perforated brick)

Attention with perforated stone! Insert the sieve sleeve (also called anchor sleeve).

Why? To prevent the mortar from draining into the air chambers of the perforated brick. Therefore not necessary even with solid stone.


5. prepare mixed mortar

Before injecting the mortar into the borehole, we press out a line about 10 cm long on a pad to ensure that the two components of the mortar are also well mixed.

Attention! The mortar can cure in a few minutes at warm temperatures. You need to be quick and have everything well prepared.

Attention! It is best to wear gloves to avoid skin contact with the mortar.


6. inject mortar

For perforated brick: Starting at the bottom of the perforation, fill the sieve sleeve completely with injection mortar.

For solid brick: Starting from the bottom of the borehole, fill only 2/3 of the borehole with injection mortar.

Important! Do not wipe away excess mortar from the borehole in the liquid state. Wait until the mortar has hardened and then remove e.g. a screwdriver.


7. screw in the screw completely and let it harden.

Now press the eyebolt completely into the drill hole by hand with a slight twisting motion.

Injection mortar

You should see the grout oozing out of the hole a little. Do not wipe away the excess mortar in the liquid state. Wait until the mortar has hardened and then remove e.g. a screwdriver.

Allow the mortar to cure for 2 hours.

8 How do I connect the rope and hammock?

So you connect the ropes of the suspension with carabiners or directly with the hammock.


Direct knotting

The Becket Hitch knot quickly and efficiently connects the hammock to the suspension cables (). The knot tightens tighter and tighter under stress.


Knotted snap hook

If your hammock is staying in a permanent location, you should use a snap hooks () to preserve the hammock and make it quicker to set up and take down. The Clove Hitch knot is used to connect rope and carabiner.

Hamacama Super Ropes

Integrated snap hook

The () have the carabiner already integrated in the rope to protect the hammock. The end of the rope is tied to the attachment points with the Roringstek.

Important basic rule: Always test the knot before you sit in the hammock. Read more about the 6 basic rules for using a hammock.

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