How Do I Install a Hammock Indoors?
The classic method of hanging hammocks at home is from wall to wall. Suitable for all hammocks.
Attaching the hammock to the ceiling saves space, looks elegant, does not block the room, and reduces the load on the suspension. However, this method is only suitable for large and wide hammocks.
1 Which Hammocks Are Suitable For Indoor?
If you haven’t bought a hammock yet, take a look at our indoor hammocks. You can influence your installation options by the size and type of hammock you choose.
Type and Width
Consider fixing your hammocks to the ceiling ? For this purpose, a net hammock with a bed width wider than your body height, and you can therefore lie crosswise instead of diagonally in the hammock. See ceiling mounting
How would you like to use your hammock? As a relaxation corner? For naps or power napping? Or as a bed substitute? The more time you spend in the hammock, the larger and higher quality of the hammock should be.
Hammocks made of synthetic fabrics can feel uncomfortable on your skin over time, and may create frictional electricity or rustle when moving.
Indoors, your hammock is protected from weather conditions, and therefore a cotton lying surface is best suited.
2 How much space do I need?
Most rooms are large enough to hang a hammock. The more curved the hammock hangs, the less space is needed.
Wall mounting details
The wall mounting allows a hammock hanging angle of 20°-45°. The hammock should sag in a banana shape, and you lie diagonally in it.
- The hammock should not hang flatter than the black hammock in the picture, because the 1. the lying surface is too stretched and 2. the load on the suspension is increased by tensile forces (see suspension angle 20°)
- Even if the wall-to-wall distance is too small, you could hang the hammock diagonally in the room, since the two hanging points do not necessarily have to be opposite each other.
- It is better to place the borehole too high than too low because you can regulate the distance with ropes.
- Suitable for all types of hammocks
- The lying surface is fully utilized by lying diagonally
- The room is abstracted by the hammock
- The suspension point on the wall doesn’t look great.
Distance of the suspension points at a height of approx. 2.5 m: 2 min. ~70% total length of the hammock (for Hamacama hammocks: Classic and Strong = min. 290 cm; Heaven = min. 300 cm).
The picture shows the largest (black) and smallest (green) recommended hanging angles.
Ceiling mounting details
The hammock hangs like a swing from the ceiling at a 45° – 75° angle. The person lies diagonally (<45°) or crosswise (>45°) in the hammock. Lying crosswise is only possible if the person’s height is smaller than the hammock’s width.
- The room is not abstracted by the hammock
- Reduced load on the suspension
- Less space required
- The suspension screws are more subtle and hidden on the ceiling
- The hammock must be wide enough so that you can lie crosswise in it (width of the hammock > person’s height). Rarely possible with a Brazilian-style hammock.
- If the distance between the suspension screws is too small (see suspension angle 75° and black hammock in the picture), you may feel cramped in the hammock
3 Which suspension for which material?
Can my wall or ceiling take the strain of a hammock?
Concrete ≥ C20/25
Load bearing wooden beams
Vertically perforated brick
Solid lime sand brick
|Perforated lime sand brick||
|Wooden studs (timber frame construction)||
Requires cone drill and centering grommets
||No fastening possible|
FAQ about materials and installation methods
How do I find out the material of my wall/ceiling?
- Ask your landlord or the property management
- Knocking down the wall or ceiling. If you hear a hollow noise, the building material (e.g. plasterboard) is not suitable.
- You can see through the door frames if a wall is load-bearing. 12 cm = no load-bearing wall, 24 cm and more = load-bearing wall
- Drill a small test hole. In the table above you will find an indication of what the respective bore dust looks like.
What is the difference between plastic dowels and injection mortar?
The plastic dowel is inexpensive and easy to attach. The suspension can also be easily removed and the hole covered with a repair mortar.
The plastic dowel is the optimal solution for concrete, but also suitable for solid stone. With other building materials, however, the load-bearing capacity is usually not sufficient for a hammock.
The injection mortar is a high-strength mortar that hardens in the borehole together with the eyebolt.
The assembly is a bit more complicated because the borehole has to be cleaned well with a suitable brush and a blower several times.
In contrast to the dowel, the injection mortar can also be used in more special building materials (such as aerated concrete) and offers the highest load-bearing capacity.
The disadvantage is that the suspension is very difficult to remove. This could be a no-go for a rental property.
5 What is the hammock hanging angle?
The hammock hanging angle determines how much your hammock sags, how best to lie in the hammock, and with which load factor your weight is applied onto the hammock suspension.
|Usual mounting||Wall mounting||Wall mounting||Wall mounting or ceiling mounting||Ceiling mounting|
|Best lying position|
|Load factor .||150%||100%||70%||50%|
|Example 80 KG (180 pounds) person .||120 KG (!)
|Conclusion||Not recommended: 1.5 times the load on the suspension; when lying in the hammock you may feel too tight||Recommended:
Typical angle for wall mounting, the hammock hangs in a banana shape; great for small hammocks because the bed surface is perfectly used by lying diagonally.
|Recommended: Similar advantages like 30° angle; especially useful if more than one person lies in the hammock.||Only recommended for particularly wide Mayan style hammocks (Strong, Heaven); those hammocks can hang in a swing shape; only room for one person; not suitable for people who sleep on the belly; the hammock may restrict the freedom of movement of the shoulders on the left and right; the full width of the hammock is used; requires the least room space and puts the least load on the suspension|
FAQ about hanging angle and load capacity
In summary: What influence does the hanging angle have?
- The angle does not have to be determined exactly, if the hammock sags like a banana nothing can go wrong (exception: American-style hammocks).
- The angle affects how you need to lie in the hammock to have a straight back (diagonal to transverse).
- If the angle is too small (<25°), the forces on the suspension become greater and the bed surface is tight – it doesn’t feel nice to lie in it.
- The famous 30° angle is not strictly required. However, this angle allows you to most efficiently use every inch of your hammock’s bed space.
- A wall suspension typically results in a 20°-45° hammock angle and a ceiling suspension in a 45°-75° angle.
- The bigger the angle (max. 75°), the lower the load on the suspension. At the 75° angle, the weight is distributed evenly over both suspension points.
What is the maximum weight allowed in the hammock?
This depends on the weakest link in your chain – which is usually the suspension bolts or the suspension ropes.
These are contributing factors for the max. load-bearing:
- The breaking load and wear of the suspension ropes and, if present, the karabiners
- The course of the suspension ropes (e.g. over sharp edges)
- The breaking load and wear of the hammock material
- The more the hammock sags, the lower the additional tensile forces and vice versa
- The type and age of the building material where your suspension bolts are attached to
- Dynamic forces (e.g. by jumping into the hammock)
6 Where do I drill the holes for my suspension bolts?
Determine the drill holes easily and without calculations. You need two people to help you and two ropes.
1. Tie ropes to your hammock ends
Tie the two suspension ropes to both ends of the hammock with a knot of your choice.
2. Friends hold the hammock in the right position
Two helpers hold your hammock in the way you want it to hang in the end: The lowest point at your knee height, sagging like a banana, and enough room to swing forward and back (see 4 rules of thumb).
3. Extend the ropes to the wall/ceiling and mark the drilling holes
You take the rope attached to your hammock and extend it to the wall or ceiling. That’s about where you need the drilling hole, mark it with a pencil.
Drill the first hole and install the suspension bolt. Attach your hammock. Then proceed with the second rope and extend it again to the wall or ceiling to determine the second drilling hole.
Tips on the position of the first drill hole
- For wall mounting: Better too high than low. You can always adjust the height of the hammock through the ropes. If the hole is too deep, you could touch the ground when you put it in and have no room to adjust the suspension upwards.
- For ceiling mounting: Even easier, because the two holes are at the same height with a flat ceiling. Just make sure that the distance between the two drill holes is large enough so that the hammock does not hang too swaying (see hanging angle 75°).
FAQ for how to drill
Am I allowed to drill in the walls of my rental property?
Generally, drilling and placing dowels is part of the contractual use of the dwelling. Whether these dowels then have to be removed again and holes filled, your tenancy agreement will tell you (cosmetic repairs or minor repairs).
How do I avoid drilling into a power line or water pipe?
Never drill directly above or below fittings, light switches, or power sockets!
Many hidden power cables can already be guessed by the position of switches, sockets, or junction boxes. In modern buildings, power lines are usually laid according to precise rules.
Installed by a professional, they usually run only vertically and horizontally to the ceiling and floor. As a rule, a professional lays the cables about 30 centimeters below the ceiling or 30 centimeters above the floor.
The best is to use a cable detector. In old buildings, in particular, you cannot rely on straightforward cable wiring.
Attention, reinforced concrete! What should I consider?
Note that behind most ceilings, columns and also walls made of concrete is a so-called reinforcement (also called ferroconcrete and strengthening) or a steel mesh as in the picture. While concrete is extremely durable when compressed, it has weaknesses when pulled apart. Therefore, these steel meshes are used to further increase the stability of the concrete, especially in safety-relevant areas such as the ceiling.
Do not attempt to drill through the reinforcement!
- You may negatively influence the statics of your building
- Common rock drill bits usually do not manage to drill through that steel mesh
- The drill may get stuck and could injure you
How should I drill at (reinforced) concrete?
- Cable detector (optional): Use a cable detector not only to find electric wiring but also to find steel wires. This allows the reinforcement to be identified and avoided in advance.
- Smallest drill bit: Make a test hole with a small drill bit
- Reinforcement missed (luckily): If you were able to drill to the desired depth with approximately constant resistance throughout, you luckily missed the reinforcement. You can now re-drill with the large drill bit.
- Hit the reinforcement: If you suddenly stop making progress while drilling, you have probably hit the reinforcement steel. Try again about 2 cm (1 inch) left/right and top/bottom offset. By the way: Those unwanted holes are no reason to panic (on white walls and ceilings)! You can find easily “repair putty” online or in specialty stores with which you can cover the hole easily. After drying, the incorrectly drilled hole is no longer visible.
7 Mounting on wooden beams or wooden posts
How to fix the Hamacama Screws in wood. Drill, screw in and you’re done! Alternatively, you can tie the ropes directly around the wooden beams.
- Drill with a 7 mm wood drill bit
- Robust screwdriver
First, determine the position of the drill holes as described at: Where do I drill the holes?
- Mark the 60 mm (2.3 inches) drill hole depth on the wood drill with tape. Drill a 60 mm (2.3 inches) deep hole with a 7 mm wood drill bit
- Wear safety glasses, especially when drilling overhead. Please be sure to tie up any long hair.
3. Screw in completely
Screw the shaft of the eyebolt completely into the hole using a screwdriver (a carabiner will also do).
7 Installation with plastic dowels for concrete and solid bricks
How to fix the Hamacama Screws with plastic dowel into concrete, solid brick or solid lime sand
1. mounting accessories and tools
- Percussion or hammer drill
- 12 mm masonry drill bit
- Robust screwdriver
- Protective equipment: gloves and goggles
- (optional) Smaller drill bit for pre-drilling
- (optional) Vacuum cleaner .
2. drill hole
For Hamacama Screws with plastic dowels, you will need an impact/hammer drill for concrete and solid stone with a 12 mm masonry drill bit for an 87 mm deep hole (see Where do I drill the holes?). Tip: Mark the 87 mm on the drill with tape to achieve the correct drilling depth.
Attention concrete ceiling! Please read what has to be observed with reinforced concrete.
Attention security! Wear protective equipment such as gloves and goggles and make sure your standing position is stable. If you are working with a ladder, ask another person to help you. Please be sure to tie up any longer hair.
Tip: To make the hole as beautiful as possible and to prevent the drill from slipping, you should switch off the hammer or impact function of the drill for the first few millimetres.
Tip: Have someone help you by vacuuming the drilling dust right away while you are drilling.
3. drive in dowel
Clean the borehole with a vacuum cleaner or, even better, a small brush.
First press the plastic dowel into the drill hole by hand and then carefully drive it completely into the drill hole with a hammer. Better choose a small hammer and try not to miss, so as not to damage the plaster
4. screw in the screw completely
Now screw in the eyebolt completely , e.g. with a screwdriver, until the dowel is covered by the eyebolt.
7 Installation with injection mortar
Hamacama Screws with injection mortar are ideal for weaker building materials such as vertically perforated bricks and sand-lime bricks. In order to achieve higher load-bearing capacity, this method is also used for solid stone.
- Drilling machine (depending on building material with/without percussion/hammer drilling)
- 12 mm masonry drill bit, drilling depth: 95 mm
- Protective equipment: Gloves and wear protective goggles.
- For solid brick: Drill hole blower (e.g. fischer Ausbläser AB) and cleaning brush for 12 mm drill holes.
- (optinal) smaller drill bit for pre-drilling
- (optional) Vacuum cleaner .
For the Hamacama Screws with injection mortar, you need a 12 mm masonry drill bit and a 95 mm deep drill hole (see Where do I drill the holes?). Tip: Mark the 95 mm on the drill with tape to achieve the correct drilling depth.
Attention perforated brick! For perforated brick and aerated concrete, only use rotary drilling. Impact or hammer drilling damages those materials and reduces their load-bearing capacity. How do I know if my building material is a perforated stone?
By drilling a test hole with a small drill. You can recognize perforated stone by sudden rapid drilling progress.
Attention aerated concrete! For aerated concrete, a special cone drill and a centering grommet are recommended. (See video tutorial).
Attention reinforced concrete! Please read what has to be considered for reinforced concrete (often used for ceilings).
Attention security! Wear protective equipment such as gloves and goggles and make sure your standing position is stable.
If you are working with a ladder, ask another person to help you. Please be sure to tie up any long hair.
3. Professional cleaning of hole (required for all solid stones)
Attention solid stone (e.g., concrete, solid brick)! Cleaning the borehole with a vacuum cleaner is not sufficient. Thorough cleaning with a brush and a blower is necessary, otherwise, the holding force of the mortar can be reduced significantly (see video: effect of insufficient borehole cleaning).
Therefore, the following steps must not be skipped under any circumstances with solid brick:
- 4x blow out with a blower
- Brush out 4x with a borehole brush (12 mm)
- 4x blow out with a blower
4. Use a sieve sleeve for perforated stones
Attention with perforated stone! Insert the sieve sleeve (also called anchor sleeve).
Why? To prevent the mortar from flowing into the air chambers of the perforated stone. Therefore, not needed for solid stones.
5. Prepare and mix mortar
Before injecting the mortar into the borehole, press out a line about 10 cm long on a pad to ensure that the two components of the resin are mixed well.
Attention! The mortar can harden in a few minutes at warm temperatures. You need to be quick and have everything well-prepared.
Attention! It is best to wear gloves to avoid skin contact with the mortar.
6. Inject the resin
For perforated brick: Start at the bottom of the borehole and fill the sieve sleeve completely with injection mortar.
For solid brick: Start at the bottom and fill only 2/3 of the borehole with injection mortar.
Important! Do not try to wipe away excess mortar from the borehole in the liquid state. Wait until the mortar has hardened and then remove excess (e.g., using a screwdriver).
7. Screw in by hand completely
Now press the eyebolt completely into the drill hole manually with a slight twisting motion.
You should see the resin oozing out of the hole a little. Do not wipe away the excess mortar in the liquid state. Wait until the mortar has hardened.
Allow the mortar to harden for 2 hours.
8 How do I connect rope and hammock?
This is how you connect the suspension ropes or carabiners with your hammock.
The Becket Hitch knot quickly and efficiently connects the hammock to the suspension ropes (). The knot tightens under stress.
Hammock and Carabiner
If your hammock is staying in a permanent location, you should use a carabiner () to protect the hammock and make it quicker to set up and take down. The Clove Hitch works excellent to connect a suspension rope and a carabiner.
Rope with Carabiner
The Hamacama Super Ropes () have a carabiner already integrated in the rope to protect the hammock. The end of the rope is directly tied to the suspension bolt using the anchor bend knot.