Perforated brick

Installing a hammock on perforated brick, aerated concrete or old buildings

Using Hamacama Screws and injection resin to attach a hammock to weaker building materials (e.g. old buildings) such as vertically perforated brick or aerated concrete.

TIP! You can also use this solution for concrete and solid brick to achieve greater load capacity compared to the plastic plus. However, installation with a plastic plug would be strong enough and even easier.

Video instructions

Step-by-step instructions

Tools and hammock hanging accessories at perforated bricks


Suspension accessories

Tool list

  • Drill (depending on building material with/without percussion/hammer drilling)
  • 12 mm masonry drill bit, drilling depth: 95 mm
  • Robust screwdriver
  • Protective equipment: gloves and goggles
  • Small hammer
  • 12 mm borehole brush
  • For solid brick and concrete: Drill hole blow-out tool (e.g. fischer AB blow-out tool)
  • (optional) Smaller drill bit for pre-drilling
  • (optional) Vacuum cleaner
The rope extends the hammock naturally towards the wall.

Mark drill holes

Find and mark the drilling points as described on this page

Drilling a hole, without percussion function for perforated brick

Drill a 95 mm deep hole using a 12 mm masonry drill bit.

Mark the 95 mm on the drill bit with adhesive tape to obtain the correct drilling depth.

Attention with perforated stones! Only rotary drilling for vertically perforated bricks and aerated concrete. Impact or hammer drilling damages these building materials and reduces the load-bearing capacity.

Attention with concrete! Please read what needs to be observed with reinforced concrete (often used for ceilings).

Attention security! Wear protective equipment such as gloves and safety goggles and make sure you are standing securely. If you are working with a ladder, ask another person for help. Always tie up long hair.

Repeat borehole cleaning with brushing and blowing out four times for solid stone

For solid stone and concrete: clean the drill hole professionally

Cleaning the drill holes with a vacuum cleaner is not sufficient. Thorough cleaning with a borehole brush and blower is required, as otherwise the holding force of the mortar can be reduced many times over (!) in the case of solid bricks.

The following steps must therefore never be skipped for solid brick and concrete:

  • Brush out 4x with borehole brush (12 mm)
  • 4x blow out with blower
Insert anchor sleeve in perforated stones

For perforated brick: insert anchor sleeve

Caution with perforated brick: Insert a anchor sleeve.

Why? To prevent the mortar from flowing into the air chambers of the perforated brick. Therefore not necessary for concrete and solid stones.

Press out the mortar onto the base by 10 cm and activate as follows

Mixing injection mortar

Before injecting the mortar into the drill hole, press an approx. 10 cm long line onto a carton to ensure that the two mortar components are well mixed.

Caution! The mortar can harden in a few minutes at warm temperatures. You have to be quick and prepare everything well.

Caution! It is best to wear gloves to avoid skin contact with the mortar.

Fill the drill hole with mortar from the bottom up

Filling the drill hole with mortar

For perforated brick: Fill the anchor sleeve completely with injection mortar, starting from the bottom of the drill hole.

For solid brick and concrete: Only fill 2/3 of the drill hole with injection mortar from the bottom of the drill hole.

Screw the Hamacama Screws into injection mortar

Screw in the screw completely and allow to harden

Now screw in the eyebolt by hand and, if necessary, use a screwdriver.

Important: Some excess mortar may be oozing out of the borehole. Please do not attempt to remove the mortar in a liquid state.

It takes a maximum of 2 hours for the mortar to harden completely.

Remove excess mortar

Remove dried excess mortar

Now as the mortar dried you can carefully remove it.

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